Inspired by André Lacoste’s 1996 French Ski Team design, Felipe Oliveira Baptista presents his Fall/Winter 12/13. Hard not to love this 90′s vibe with the high-fashion twist.
witnessed @ Jalouse.fr
Holy smokes this gear is fun. Colors, washes, dyes, prints, cuts all scream, “Don’t take shit so serious!” Although Mowgli Surf has playfulness in mind they haven’t forgotten the importance of comfortability, and looking good. The cuts are great (tried on a pair of the sweatpants at Thalia Surf), and they feel fashion forward, but not over the top. You can’t be afraid of color with this California made apparel line, but why would you when your brand is inspired by The Jungle Book and what Mowgli represents; a crazy kid swinging from trees, full of freedom and fun.
TF Fall Winter 2012 designed by Karl Templer and Peter Som, discovered by Jalouse who initially covered this 70′s influenced line. Really vibing the equestrian theme incorporated into this premium women’s line.
On a recent trip to LA, I visited the Nudie Jeans flagship store, the first of it’s kind in West Hollywood. The visit turned into an awesome discusson on denim, fit, and Sweden (Where Nudie hails from). After learning from the best in the trade, Chris and Phil; two denim connoisseur that take serious pride in their profession, I felt it necessary to spread some knowledge about denim to those of you who were in my shoes and didn’t really have a clue.
Nudie Jeans was founded in Gothenburg, Sweden, by Maria Erixsson, and now sells in over 20 countries. Most of you have probably heard of Nudie Jeans, and although I am a huge fan of the company and their product, it becomes extremely interesting when you dive into how their denim is made and what procedures are taken in creating such a beautifully finished product. As Phil started to walk me through all the different fits, treatments and constructions, one thing became certain; I had a hard time keeping up with him. Words I have heard used over and over, are (Dry, Selvage, Slow, Japanese Selvage) I always acted as though I knew exactly what these terms meant and nodded along knowingly, but it was evident that I was overdue for a lesson. Chris Adams quickly brought me up to speed:
Dry Denim, is when the denim isn’t washed after the fabricating and dying process. Breaking in a pair of dry denim jeans involves NOT washing them for up to 6 months or a year. Where the jeans come to life is as you wear them, the fabric starts to fade, crinkle, and crease in the areas specific to your body. You get a custom look specific to your lifestyle and how you wear your jeans.
Selvage Denim, doesn’t have anything to do with salvaging anything, the word “selvage” comes from the phrase “self-edge”, the natural edge of a roll of fabric and instead it is denim made on old-style shuttle looms and selvage comes from how the fabric is woven using once continuous cross thread; the weft. As the the weft loops back into the edge of the weave the selvage edge is created.
Slow, production is much slower than conventionally produced denim, and only the best raw materials are used, thus making it more expensive. The slow speed of the loom causes less stress on the yarn makes the hand of the denim softer and the fabric more durable.
Japanese Selvage, seems to be one the top of line types of denim. Japanese denim is known for being high quality and for often using longer cotton fibers so that the threads don’t have to be twisted as much. This gives the material a softer hand feel as apposed to rougher denims that use shorter length cotton fibers. The Japanese also have access to the shuttle looms so you get a more durable less rushed denim. The dying processes are also finished without a wash allowing for the consumer to customize their jeans with wear.
Nudie Jeans became more of an experience than any other denim shopping i’ve done and its amazing to see the difference when you purchase a high quality fitted jean as aposed to what i’ve been wearing in the past. I love the idea of learning about a product before you buy it, the result is an appreciation for a craft that can go unnoticed and also elicits a confidence and pride in what you wear everyday.
a close up look at a pair of After Treated masterpieces.
clean lines and durable orange stitching is a Nudie signature.
Phil is a denim Genius and these guys also know their coffee.
a sneak peak into the Denim Labs.
visit Nudie Jeans online
visit their store in Hollywood
This year at Agenda, Witness This cruised for hours in search the brands that really stood out. After quite a few rounds through the massive warehouse at the LBC Convention Center, there were five different brands that left a strong impression. We made our way back to each of those booths, introduced ourselves, and took a closer look, our goal was to hear a bit of their story, their inspiration for the line and where they are headed. These following five brands were our stand outs for the show.
We featured Lifetime last year and here they are on our top five list again. Going into the show, we knew we were going to hunt down their booth. We had our expectations pretty high after seeing last years line and with this brand we assure you, they continue to raise and set the bar when it comes to premium lifestyle apparel. We met Mike Wilson this year, Mike is from Vancouver and manages sales in Canada, it was very cool to have him show us the line, pulling his favorite pieces off of the rack. “Let me show you this waxed canvas we are working with now!” His excitement is a solid indicator of what this brand means to the people who represent it.
Seeing Lifetime’s Fall/Winter 2012 line makes us miss the Pacific Northwest. You can see influence from Vancouver BC, where the brand was founded; canvases, flannels and sweaters woven from deep earthy colors (orange rust, Vancouver Island rain forests dark greens, foggy lake blues). The perfect mixture of outdoor ruggedness and city culture politely declares ”distinguished gentlemen but I know my way around the shop and in the woods.” Practicality and longevity is equally important with Lifetime, this brand makes apparel that last a long time. We purchased a chambray button-down two years ago and it looks just as good as the first day we put it on in the store. It’s a tough world out there for apparel brands, we see them come and go in a unpredictable economy, but we are certain that Lifetime is here to stay.
It was impossible to look past the colors purposefully and perfectly scattered among graphics and materials hanging in Wellen’s booth. Wellen was founded by Matt Jung in 2007 and since then has grown to be a proper surf apparel line, gracing forward indy surf retailers such as Surfindian, Thalia, and Shelter to name a few. Wellen also finds it’s place in trend-setting boutiques such as American Rag. Matt showed us a bit of his upcoming line and it’s impressive to say the least. Pastels make their way in, along side lots of perfectly complimentary colored graphics and prints that push the line into a art driven, yet easily wearable line. There is a playful flavor that resonates with Wellen, whether it is the friendly approachability of the Matt and his team or the designs themselves that speak “sun, waves, and not taking life too seriously.”
“Made in USA” is de-bossed beautifully on a leather patch of the first bag we pick up. It feels good to hold something made here at home, and every time we see it, we wish more people did it. Will Leather Goods is more than just Good, it’s smart, sophisticated, premium, durable and nostalgic. The nostalgia comes from the story we hear from Madelyn Krevitt, who is manning or should we say womanning the booth when we come by. She tells us about the founder William Adler who started WGD selling belts on the boardwalk in Venice Beach, CA. Bill took inspiration from western culture (saddles, gun hosters, and cowboy belts) and after he started WGD in Eugene Oregon in 1981, he began the production of hand made leather products such as belts, bags, wallets and other small accessories. Now the “Adler Family Co.” is embossed right below “Made in USA” as a reminder that you can expect solid, classic, rugged yet stylish, made in America product from Will Leather Goods.
We had been familiar with Makia, but before this show, hadn’t taken the time to really check out the line in it’s entirety. We have to admit what pulled us into the booth was a warm invitation from Geoff Nishimoto and Camille Dizon from 722 Figueroa (LA showroom and marketing agency for Makia). After having Geoff show us the line it was hard not to get excited. The confident yet wearable colors found on the jackets brought a few themes to our attention.
1. Durable and Stylish: The idea that with Makia’s jackets you can see that they are durable and very well made, forged from the fjords of Finland, well, designed at least. The confidence that you can take these jackets down back-country pow lines all day, then put on your best going out gear, throw the jacket on top and you look incredibly sharp instead of looking like a little kid hanging out in your snowboard coat in a bar.
2. We took note of the hardware. In the past it seems that big buttons have been reserved for hi-fashion designer sweaters and jackets that don’t necessarily speak to durability and ruggedness, but here we see them used in a way that works the opposite, they compliment the clean silhouette of the apparel and invite classic European detailing into the mix. Overall Makia understands how to make modernistic apparel for a guy who thrives on being outdoors and still wants to look polished.
Publish is on another level. We are so incredibly excited about this Southern California brand and in our minds it sits as one of the top clothing brands at Agenda. We had the special opportunity to speak with their Creative Director Mike Huynh about the line and he walked us through the pieces. Each silhouette is dialed, the cut is sophisticated but still true to a casual fit. Where Publish stands apart from the others is it’s attention to detail, everything from the embroidered feather that graces the backs of some of the knits and a few jackets, to the sharp buttons and trim, speaks of a attentive designer. The materials also need to be applauded, a vest we pulled out of the rack, had three different materials constructed into one. The result is a far from bland apparel line that is impossible to overlook. Publish is also consistently pushing forward on the comfort side. With the release of their Jogger Pant y0u can tell they have had fun with the concept but have stayed true to what they stand for. We can’t wait to comes out next from Publish because so far they have been beyond impressive.
Random mens fashion we are feeling right now.
various brands from various sources
Photos by Peter Troy + Words by Jennifer Smith
Eleanor Whitcomb is not yet a household name, however her creativity and bold style suggests that she is well on her way to doing big things. As the creative genius behind her flirty and often colorful designs, I couldn’t help but feel incredibly lucky to have seen her create firsthand and get to know where her inspiration comes from on the regular. Her creative concept is always changing and every day she wakes up and is inspired by something new. (As we were talking, she was busy fiddling with leather scraps and gold studs) Doing what you love to do because it makes you happy is extremely important to her. By doing so, she feels she is making the world a more beautiful place. Mixing bright colors and different textures, she’s created a concept of a new age victorian with a dash of bohemian inspired by her Great Grandmother Grace, who taught her that its exciting to add a dose of fantasy into their everyday lives. As she says this, I think about a few weeks prior when she asked me for my Harley boot right off of my foot as I was watching her work on her new line- she proceeded to attach a handmade leather fringe tassel with a turquoise bead. Continuously proving she just loves to do it all, and I am thoroughly enjoying this.
photo by Jennifer Smith
Combining recycled pieces of leather, exotic beads, and feathers. Nellie hand makes a variety of earrings, necklaces, cuffs and accessories to die for. She has a progressive style and drive that allows her to create a new collection every 4-6 weeks. “Never a plan, just sit down and create beauty”, as she so eloquently puts it. What her current line is featuring now: She likes to call them “The Winter Feather” using texture and angles of the leather fringe. I couldn’t help but agree that this was a fantastic idea and made complete sense. She has also begun incorporating skulls, which are incredibly fresh.
Founded in 2010, Eleanor began making her unique jewelry after her sewing machine hit the hay shortly after graduation. She began her transition from creating clothing to creating new and fun jewelry collection and it seems the rest is history. Another reason we love these- everything is hand cut making each piece unique in its own way, and made with love in Burlington, Vermont. Trying to reduce the impact on the world, it is very important to collect as many materials local as she can. Leather scraps that may have been thrown away for instance, she will buy a big bag of and make some of her most signature pieces. Her vision and goals for the future will be to have a self-sustainable design company and brand that delves into several different categories. Eventually she hopes to go back to her roots and be able to incorporate her own clothing line as well. Similar to a “lifestyle stylist- but a more responsible lifestyle” as she puts it.
Currently her line is carried by several local boutiques on the famous Church Street in downtown Burlington Vermont including ECCO, Maven and Downtown Threads, and potentially a few more shops and local fashion events are in the process of supporting the creative genius. (Rightfully so). All I can say is this stuff is fresh, hot and I have a feeling we will be seeing great things to come, as this is just the beginning.
You can find Nellie’s designs on her Etsy Page and on Facebook. In fact, she is even cool enough to offer a few pairs out to a few randomly chosen people (see details below). As someone that has been rocking her jewelry personally during my travels through LA to San Diego, Brooklyn through Manhattan to name a few. Let me be, NOT the first to say, I have never had so many people wondering where the heck they could get a pair. Lucky you.
To enter to win a pair of earrings:
Like Nellie’s page on Facebook here: Nellie’s Facebook Page
Like Witness This’s Facebook page here: Witness This Facebook Page
A few lucky new fans will win! If you already are a fan of each page, make a comment on our walls telling us what you like about her work!
Vintage clothing and accessories with a feel good story. Mate Vintage is an online store for one of a kind vintage wear and for every tee you buy online, they donate a new organic cotton shirt to someone in need. “In with the old, out with the new.” Visit there store here and check out their lookbook, photographed by Austin Winchell.
Rodarte’s most recent line looks towards Amish culture for inspiration. It’s hard to believe that this line is able to tip toe on the edge of forward fashion while referencing such a different time and place. Growing up around a few Amish communities, it would be really difficult to imagine using them as styling inspiration, however it’s been done here and were curious your thoughts on if it works or not. Our favorite pieces have to be the sublimated crinkle swarovski gown and the silk chiffon circle skirt which looks to be printed rope. You can check out more from the line here.
via Opening Ceremony